Academic Travel- Fall 2012- Scotland

Backstage or Frontstage?

Roaming Through the Layers of Scotland

When most people think of traveling they generally invision themselves in the country of their choice sightseeing (which mostly just includes famous monuments or architecture such as the Eifel Tower), eating the local cuisine (as long as its not too outrageous), and souvenir shopping. Those of us who have traveled more and become aware of other aspects of traveling that goes past the general expectations of most people. There are also those of us who claim, with perhaps a hint of arrogance, that we try and go past the frontstage of tourist attractions, and instead focus on the actual meat of the culture we are visiting. But what does it really mean to leave the frontstage in favor of the backstage. Where are the lines drawn? Before our trip to Scotland we read about this idea of frontstage and backstage, and were asked to be aware of the different layers as we traveled through the country. However, by the end of the travel I realized just how hard it can be to separate between the front and backstage.

We of course realized we would be doing SOME touristy things, and that was easily identified as frontstage. On our first day in Edinburgh we took a tour bus through the city to help orient ourselves and also to get a quick and easy background on some of the places we would be seeing later or maybe simply walking by. Here we were, a large tour group stereotypically exploring the city via tour bus. Not much of a cultural experience, but crucial to our experience in its own way. Its easy to see how tour buses may have become a typical frontstage experience. It is the very epitome of skimming the surface of a new location, and missing out on the more in-depth experiences within. However, it is a quick and easy way to see and learn about the essential landmarks in the area, which is perfect for tourists who have a limited amount of time and oh so much to see.

In our attempt to get to the "meat" of the Scottish culture, or the backstage, a group of us decided to have a night out on the town. We explored nearby pubs, asked passing locals for recommendations, and even stumbled into the university "Library Bar". Here, we thought, is the real backstage of Edinburgh. We were surrounded by students who went to the university all chatting and drinking after a day at school. We ordered ourselves some beers, and sat down at a table to enjoy our night. Were we truly in the backstage? True, we had found ourselves a non tourist location that was filled with local students who were going about their lives same as always. However, the group of us didn't truly interact with the Edinburgh residents. Instead we simply enjoyed our night talking amongst ourselves, and quietly witnessing our surroundings without interfering. Were we actually in the backstage because we were able to observe how students in the city would normally spend their evening? Through not interacting we did not skew our environment. By talking to the locals would we not have changed the situation, because instead of enjoying a normal evening they would then be experiencing the unusual event of talking to foreigners. Were we still not fully in the backstage precisely because we were not interacting and therefore simply spectators of our surroundings, and not truly a part of it?

The more I experienced in Scotland, the more I began to question where the backstage began and where the frontstage ended. We visited Deanston Distillery to see how the Scots made Whiskey. A tour guide took us through the Distillery explaining to us the process and pointing out what each machine and room did. At first I was quick to place this as a frontstage experience, since what are tours after all but traditional tourist attractions? However, I began thinking and realized that maybe there was some backstage to this tour. When it comes down to it we were getting a backstage tour of what actual Scots do to make actual Scotch Whiskey. Despite being in a tour or not, we were able to witness the actual process of how the country made the alcoholic beverage they were so known for.

One of the things that will forever stick out to me when I think back to my time in Scotland is the surreal and breathtaking beauty of the scenery. And while I'm thinking of beautiful scenery my mind of course goes to the Isle of Skye and the beach we got to see it from for the first time. Which of course got me to wondering: is the scenery of a country the backstage or the frontstage? Many tourists of course plan driving to scenic locations as part of their vacation, but does that make it touristy? After all, the scenery of a country is one of its most genuine aspects. Culture may change, people may come and go, but the landscape and climate remain more or less the same through out the decades. Are some scenic routes more touristy then others? Perhaps the less well known locations are more backstage. Such locations where locals may spend a nice day at the beach, or take a small walk by their house in the highlands. Maybe walking through these places that only locals experience normally is also an example of backstage. But at the same time, it is possible that just by being here (us, a huge group of tourists) we are turning a once backstage location into a frontstage.

During our hikes through these beautiful locations we also witness the daily experiences of another sort of local: the sleepy sheep on the hills. Here they are grazing as they do everyday, only slightly curious about our presence but ultimately unconcerned as long as we don't venture too close. We once again play the role of the casual observers of local daily life. We could see the backstage where the every day life of the people who live in this country and their livelihood (in this case sheep) are happening all around us, unaware or uncaring of our presence. At the same time, we are entirely uninvolved. We are not helping in the daily chores or getting a first hand experience of highland life.

In Portree on the Isle of Skye, Hillary, Shelby, and I went into the grocery store to browse their selection and to see if they had any ingredients we were unable to get in Switzerland. As I walked through their aisles looking at the different brands and items they had I stumbled upon what I believed was a great treasure: a box of cereal called "Scott's Porage Oats" with a strong looking Scottish man in a Kilt on the cover. I immediately snapped a picture (shown bellow). I had always thought the use of Kilts and other Scottish symbols was mostly used in advertising aimed at tourists to give them a more "authentic" feel of Scotland. Yet here I was in a small local grocery store in a small town with this gem. I would have loved to talk to a local of the community who buys this cereal and discuss whether this sort of advertising appeals to them. As I was thinking about it I imagined this sort of marketing could be focused at Scottish children to encourage them to grow up strong (as Scott's should be, as the cover suggests), maybe like how American children were taught to eat spinach like Popeye. Was this a real look into the backstage, or just another marketing trick to thrill tourists? Unfortunately I did not see any locals trying to buy it to ask.

Another general expectation when traveling is sampling the local cuisine. I would say local foods on their own are fairly backstage especially if they continue to be an important part of daily life. I'd say trying a local specialty at a restaurant known for their quality and traditional preparation of this dish is the epitome of the culinary backstage. However, that can be very different then hearing that fish and chips is local and buying a plate at some touristy restaurant near your hotel. Sometimes, though, there is no right or wrong place to try a local food, and you just have to hope you get lucky with your restaurant selection. Another shortcoming in tourism is that many people will only try foods that are similar to those that they are used to, and will generally avoid any sort of food risk such as Haggis. Some of us are a little more daring. I tried the Scottish dish at one of the restaurants we went to and absolutely loved it. After giving it my endorsement others at my table were willing to sample a bite of the unusual dish. Here we were sampling a little piece of the backstage, but yet missing out on so much more such as black pudding. Maybe I'm just not that daring...

So what is my conclusion on where the line between frontstage and backstage lies? I wish i knew exactly. I spent a majority of my trip puzzling over this matter. Did the things we experienced include backstage? Were they mostly frontstage? Perhaps each situation had a mix of both. In my experience there was no pure backstage encounter, and every frontstage experience gave you a peek into the backstage. I'd have to say the backstage is not a place that can simply be walked into. In fact, I would be compelled to say there is no true way to become a part of the backstage unless you live in the country, and leave the status of tourist behind. Until then, we may get close to the backstage in certain aspects- through witnessing backstage events, or communicating with backstage citizens- but as long as we are tourists our presence itself keeps us from really integrating into the backstage, and we can only hope to satisfy ourselves with the spectacular and one of a kind experiences.